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梦雪9992

金虫 (小有名气)

[交流] 意大利饮食

ITALY



AT THE RENTAL-CAR RETURN MILAN’S Malpensa airport, I take a last pensive sniff of our Fiat Panda. Someone should bottle the scent snd call it Aroma Artigianale. The top notes arc of roastcd hazclnuts the vaunted Piedmontese nocciole delle Langhe in the crumbly cookies eaten just an hour ago. The base notes:Amalfi lemons we’d picked off trees in Campania. In between is faded porcine douquet, mingling the expensive muskiness of three-year-old culatello ham from Emilia-Romagna with the garlicky ping of a porchetta sandwich from a weekend market in Umbria.

Ah, Umbria! Where we drizzled truffled honey on slices of young pecorino at Tartufi Bianconi, a wonderful truffle shop near Citta di Castello. “Quit hallucinating!” says Barry, my fidanzato. “Figure our how to get the Robiola cheese through customs!”

We had embarked on a glutton’s grand tour of the boot-armed with a list, amassed with the diligent aid of top Italian chefs and critics, of the country’s best food(and booze) artisans. Our itinerary would take us from Rome to Campania, through a brief porchetta detour to Umbria, farther north through pig-happy Emilia-Romagna, and on to wine-soaked Piedmont. Trattorias and fine-dining temples would figure in. But the main idea was to break bread with pizzaioli, salumai, and chocolatiers.

A fctish for ingredicnts in the belpaese has, of coursc, long been celebrated, but now a new spirit is thriving all over the country. For ever mom-and-pop farm there’s a young pomodoro grower with a Ph.D. in botany. Along with village bakers, we met chocolate makers obsessed with rare cacao beans and next-generation pizzaioli schooled in yeast biochemistry. Virtually every producer was a passionate preservationist on a mission to resurrect an heirloom pig_or a grape, or a goat cheese. The Piedmontese rawmilk Robiola di Roccaverano now swaddled deep in my suitcase was one such goat cheese. The road to it led from Rome.

PIZZA, BEER, AND GELATO IN ROME

Off the plane from New York City, we fight jet lag with a gelatothon at Gelateria dei Gracchi, in Prati. We have 24 hours in the Eternal City to taste our short list, dictated to me by the editors of the popular Gambero rosso guide to wine snd food. Gracchi looks spare_clinical even. But a just-delivered crate of wild strawberries fragrantly reassures us. So does Gracchi’s pistachio gelato, considered Rome’s best. It’s alive with the flavor of fresh-roasted Bronte nuts from the slopes of Mount Etna. The gelatiere, Alberto manassei, is a Neoclassicist whose fruit flavors follow the draws on pure fondant(not just the usual cocoa powder).

Farther on into Prati, away from the Vatican, celebrity pizzaiolo Gabriele Bonci reinvents pizza al taglio_rectangular Roman pizza sold by weight_at the tiny Pizzarium. To dough fanatics, this cramped shop is the Sistine Chapel of yeast. Yeast, as in the wild stuff from 200-year-old sourdough starters that the eccentric Bonci collects from old ladies in Calabrian villages. Subversively fluffy by Roman standards, with an intimation of sourness, his dough is kneaded from a “cuvee” of flours stone-ground by Piedmontese miller Mulino Marino.

We wait for new pizza trays. Out comes spicy coppa sausage with blood orange, then hyper-Roman old-fashioned tomatoey tripe, cleaned over three days. Bonci’s signature pizza conlepatate_hand-crushed, densefleshed Abruzzo spuds with a hint of vanilla_is a canny trompel’oeil. Where does the dough end and the topping begin?

Bonci has found a soul mate in Leonardo Di Vincenzo, with whom he co-owns the yeast-centric Bir&Fud, in Trastevere. With a doctorate in biochemistry, the 33-year-old Di Vincenzo could be a poster boy for the new Italian artisan_discoursing on lactobacilli as easily as he rates obscure monastic Belgian brews. Four years ago his small-batch Birra del Borgo ignited Rome’s craft-beer craze. At Bir&Fud, Di Vincenzo’s brews are matched with Bonci’s dough-centric dishes_crostini, bruschetta, round Neapolitan pies.

Following Bonic, young Italian bakers have gone crazy for sourdough leavening. Lievito naturale_passed down from the owner’s family_is what raises the buttery cream-filled cornetti at Cristalli di Zucchero to stratospheres above all other breakfast pastries in town. For years sweet-toothed Romans trekked to the owner’s original pasticceria in the outlying Monteverde district. The new branch is barely a truffle toss from the Campidoglio, and inside, jewellike pastries marry French techniques with local ingredients.

Our time’s almost up in Rome. But how can we leave without paying respects to the monumentally chewy pizza bianca at Antico Forno Roscioli, by the Campo de Fiori? “Una droga” is how one customer praises this pizza, its distinctive crust formed when the six-foot oblongs of dough rest under a glazing of olive oil. We chew it on the two-hour train ride to Naples the next day.

PASTA, TOMATOES, AND ANCHOVIES IN CAMPANIA

     “Enzo Coccia!” roared Bonci when I asked who’s the greatest pizzaiolo in Naples. And so here we are in tony Posillipo quarter at Pizzeria La Notizia, where ilgrande Coccia barks his featherlight pies. Perfection, so he explains to us, relies on the complicated calibration of a mere trace of yeast, a 10-to 14-hour fermentation at room temperature(no refrigerators in the 1730’s, when pizza was born), and extra-loose dough. Ninety seconds in an 815 degree oak-and beech-fueled inferno, and the pies practically levitate onto the table, attractively blistered and honeycombed with tiny air bubbles_as essential to pizza greatness as marbling is to Kobe beef. The toppings are scant and expressive: bitter greens, smoked buffalo provala, a burst of Vesuvian pomodorini. A pizza bianca with a schmear of lard, basil, and pecorino is Coccia’s tribute to the pre-tomato age.

     The next day we hit the road, pressing south past Vesuvius, emerging an hour later at Vico Equense, a picturesque town on the Sorrentine Peninsula that travelers normally by pass for Positano. In so doing they miss the region’s most remarkable food shop. At La Tradizione, product curators Annamaria Cuomo and Salvatore Da Gennaro have assembled a wonderland of Campanian foodstuffs: San Marzano tomatoes handpicked in the Vesuvian soil; ricotta smoked over juniper; and the sack-shaped local raw cow’s-milk cheese provolone del Monaco, which Salvatore ages in caves and grottoes.

     The Da Gennaros take us in hand. First, spongy limoncello soaked baby babas at Gelateria Latteria Gabriele, which Cuomo’s family owns. Then lunch an’E Curti, an osteria in the shadow of Vesuvius, where super-mamma Angela Ceriello cooks regional soul food and her son Enzo D’Alessandro produces nucillo, a potent walnut digestivo. His is so terroir-driven, the slender bottles specify the exact sites where the nuts were picked. I mention Grangnano(epicenter for centuries of Italy’s dried durum-wheat pasta production). Presto: Salvatore whisks us off to the sunblasted town where pastas were once hung to dry along the main street.

     For dinner, the Da Gennaros drive us along a bit of hairpin Amalfi Coast road to Cetara. This is probably the last of the Amalfi villages to fully retain its salty traditional air and livelihood from anchovies_particularly their amber liquid by-prod-uct, colatura. Pasquale Torrente, owner of Al Convento restaurant, describes colatura-making with a semi-pagan glee: the fishing under a spring moon, the curing in barrels with chestnuts or lemons. The essence that seeps out of the salted fish is pure distillate of sea_added by expensive dropfuls to pastas such as Al Convento’s al dente Grangnano spaghetti.

     Campania’s product and restaurant boom owes thanks to Livia and Alfonso Iaccarino, of the Michelin two starred Don Alfonso 1890 restaurant, in Sant’Agata suidue Golfi, over looking the Gulf of Naples. The Iaccarinos_who also consult at the excellent restaurant at Le Sirenuse, in Positano_pioneered the organic kitchen garden in Europe almost three decades ago. They’re producers, too_of ethereal olive oils and limoncello with three times the average of infused citrus. Tumbling into the Mediterranean at the steep far tip of the Sorrentine Peninsula, their farm, Le Peracciole, was scrappy bare land when they bought it in 1990; turning it fertile has been an ongoing obsession. Livia drives us over, negotiating switchbacks with the sea down below. Then we wander on foot past olive trees and artichoke thistles, into a would of Amalfi lemons dangling from trellises. We gape at chalky-gray Capri, rising across from us in the twilight. “Gee, I’d buy here, too,” gulps Barry as Livia picks greens for a salad.

PROSCIUTTO AND PARMIGIANO IN EMILIA-ROMAGNA

     After passing through Tuscany’s classic hills we head north into the rich flat plains of Emilia-Romagan, land of rosy prosciuttos and vast circumferences of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Of aged aceto balsamico and pastas crafted from eggy sfoglie(sheets) thin enough to read through(ideally). All this awaits us in Modena, the affluent ducal town revered by Italian gastronauts. Out guide is Massimo Bottura, a chef who marries sensuous Slow Food preservationism with futuristic invention at the Michelin two-starred Osteria Francescana. I can’t wait to visit his favorite food artisans. One of them, Giancarlo Rubaldi, presides over Bar Schiavoni, in Modena’s exquisite covered market. Oblivious to the huge lines, Rubaldi meticulously assembles our lunch.
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zap65535

木虫 (著名写手)

两院大学士后
to LZ：This theme is much easier for a cook rather than for a scientist or a pharmacist.
And for my part , unfortunately ,both Gastronomy and 50 coins fail to arouse my appetite.
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2楼2010-02-21 13:44:50
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xiaoqihu

铁杆木虫 (著名写手)

无聊，翻译玩玩

梦雪9992(金币+2): 2010-02-27 17:31
The next day we hit the road, pressing south past Vesuvius, emerging an hour later at Vico Equense, a picturesque town on the Sorrentine Peninsula that travelers normally by pass for Positano. In so doing they miss the region’s most remarkable food shop. At La Tradizione, product curators Annamaria Cuomo and Salvatore Da Gennaro have assembled a wonderland of Campanian foodstuffs: San Marzano tomatoes handpicked in the Vesuvian soil; ricotta smoked over juniper; and the sack-shaped local raw cow’s-milk cheese provolone del Monaco, which Salvatore ages in caves and grottoes.

第二天，我们开拔，穿过Vesuvius，一个小时后到达了Vico Equense，一个在Sorrentine Peninsula犹如画一般的小镇，人们通常为了Positano错过的地方。他们错过了本地区著名的食物商店。La Tradizione是Annamaria Cuomo 和 Salvatore Da Gennaro为Campanian特色食品建成的美丽的地方：有亲手从Vesuvian摘来的 San Marzano西红柿，杜松木烟熏的 ricotta奶酪和本地的袋装Monaco鲜牛奶干奶酪
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xiaoqihu

铁杆木虫 (著名写手)
梦雪9992(金币+2): 2010-02-27 17:31
Our time’s almost up in Rome. But how can we leave without paying respects to the monumentally chewy pizza bianca at Antico Forno Roscioli by the Campo de Fiori? “Una droga” is how one customer praises this pizza, its distinctive crust formed when the six-foot oblongs of dough rest under a glazing of olive oil. We chew it on the two-hour train ride to Naples the next day.

我们在罗马的时间就要结束了，但是我们怎么能毫不留恋Antico Forno Roscioli的Campo de Fiori制作的嚼劲十足的bianca pizza。 “Una droga” 是食客对于它美好的评价，它独一无二的脆皮面饼是由放在橄榄油上的6英尺的长方形生面团橄榄油的发酵而来。我们在第二天去Naples的2个小时车程的火车上一直咀嚼着它来打发时间。

[ Last edited by xiaoqihu on 2010-2-22 at 03:05 ]
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lengbingyu

金虫 (小有名气)
不知楼主要做什么？是要翻译吗？
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抢节宁改，贞心自束
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lengbingyu

金虫 (小有名气)
梦雪9992(金币+40): 2010-02-27 17:32
你这个好长啊，而且很多词都不是英语单词，我猜的。还有很多地名、食物名，更查不到了。50BB真不值啊，累死啦！！！嘿嘿……

在租来返回米兰Malpensa机场的车上，我最后沉思地回想了一下我们的菲亚特熊猫。有人应把这种香气装瓶，称之为Artigianale。在roastcd hazclnuts弧顶注意到自诩皮埃蒙特nocciole阿尔朗格的脆饼干，只在一个小时前刚吃过。要注意：在坎帕尼亚我们从树下摘下阿马尔菲柠檬。在它们之间是衰退的porcine douquet，混合昂贵的来自艾米利亚的已有三年历史的culatello火腿，上散发着麝香，并伴有来自平罗马涅周末市场上的波尔凯三明治的garlicky ping。

啊，翁布里亚！在Tartufi比安科尼，我们把松露蜂蜜抹在truffled嫩羊片上，卡斯泰洛城附近很棒的松露店。 “停止产生幻觉！”巴里说，我的fidanzato。 “想想怎么让Robiola奶酪通过海关！”

我们已展开了馋嘴大旅游，手持名单，在意大利勤奋的顶级厨师和批评家的帮助下，品尝该国的最佳食品（和酒）。我们的旅行将我们从罗马带到坎帕尼亚，通过一个简短的波尔凯塔绕道翁布里亚，向北通过 “快乐猪”Emilia - Romagna大，到达葡萄酒浸泡的皮埃蒙特。我们看到无数的饮食店和精致优雅的庙宇，但是，主要的目的是打破pizzaioli，salumai和巧克力面包的成见。

belpaese的 fctish for ingredicnts 节，当然，早已为人们庆祝，但现在一个新的精神正在全国各地蓬勃发展。“妈妈永远和流行”农场有一个年轻的波莫多罗种植者，是植物学博士。随着乡村面包师，我们遇到巧克力制造者将罕见的可可豆和新一代pizzaioli在酵母中混合。几乎每一个生产者是一个充满激情的保护主义者，担负复兴传家宝猪还是葡萄，或山羊奶酪的重任。现在包裹在我手提箱里的皮埃蒙特rawmilk Robiola迪罗卡韦拉诺深就是这样一个山羊奶酪。我们从罗马至它的盛产地。

罗马的比萨，啤酒，冰淇淋

从来自纽约的飞机上下来，我们在普拉蒂的Gelateria dei Gracchi倒时差。我们有24小时在永恒之城品尝我们的短名单，流行的甘贝罗罗索编导向我讲述葡萄酒和食品。格拉基甚至看起来有点备用。但是，刚刚采摘的野生草莓箱让我们感到宽慰。因此，不格拉基的开心果冰淇淋，被认为是罗马最好的。这与从埃特纳火山斜坡采摘的鲜烤坚果的味道同在。该gelatiere，阿尔贝托马纳塞伊，是新古典主义的，其水果口味按照纯粹翻糖（不只是一般的可可粉）而制。

再往前就到普拉蒂，远离梵蒂冈，有有名的pizzaiolo Gabriele Bonci， al taglio比萨，taglio_rectangular罗马比萨由小Pizzarium店称重出售。对面团狂热分子来说，这狭窄的店铺，是酵母西斯廷教堂。酵母，如野生的从200年前的拓荒者首发者那来的东西，自卡拉布里亚农村老太太收集的奇怪的收藏。由罗马标准来看绝对蓬松，有一丝的酸味，他的揉面团，是从“香槟”石头的面粉而来，这由皮埃蒙特磨坊主穆利尼奥圣马力诺发明。

我们等待新的比萨饼盘。端出来辣香肠和血橙，然后超罗马老式的番茄风味牛肚，泡制3天。邦奇的标志性比萨饼conlepatatehand手压而成，浓缩新鲜的阿布鲁佐,并带有一点香草味，是一个精明的trompel'oeil。哪里是面团的结束和一流成品的开始？

邦奇已经在莱昂纳多温琴找到了灵魂伴侣，与他共同拥有酵母为中心的坐落在Trastevere的比尔和福德。凭借生物化学博士学位，33岁的迪温琴可能是一个新的意大利工匠的传承者，处理乳酸杆菌象掩盖比利时寺院酿酒海报一样容易。四年前他的小批量Birra del Borgo点燃罗马啤酒工艺的热潮。在比尔＆福德，邸文森佐的酿造与邦奇的以面团为中心的菜式—crostini，面包片，圆那不勒斯馅饼相配。

博尼奇往下，年轻的意大利面包师为拓荒者的发酵着了迷。 Lievito自然法从业主的家族传承下来，正是这让添满了黄油和奶油的科尼特在Cristalli di Zucchero超过所有其他早餐糕点。多年来喜欢吃甜食的罗马人跋山涉水至边远的蒙特沃德区所有者的原始pasticceria。新分区几乎是一个从坎皮多利奥开始的松露区；而内部，宝石般糕饼结合了当地食材和法国技术。

我们在罗马的时间就要结束了，但我们怎能不留恋Antico Forno Roscioli的Campo de Fiori制作的嚼劲十足的比安卡比萨饼。一位顾客赞扬这一比萨饼“Una droga”，它独一无二的脆皮面饼是这样做成的，由放在橄榄油上的6英尺见方的面团发酵而来。我们在第二天去那不勒斯的2个小时车程的火车上我们一直咀嚼着它。

坎帕尼亚的面食，番茄，及凤尾鱼

  当我问及在那不勒斯 谁是最大的pizzaiolo ， 邦奇吼道“恩佐科恰！”。因此，我们在托尼波西利波这里，Pizzeria La Notizia一角，其中伊尔格兰德制作他的羽毛一样轻的馅饼。完美，所以他向我们解释，在依靠复杂的校准，凭借微量酵母，在室温发酵10至14时（在1730年当比萨饼出生时，没有冰箱），和额外的宽松的面团。经历 90秒在815度的橡树和山毛榉燃料的环境，馅饼最最终上桌，引人注目地闪光，有细小的空气泡，这是比萨饼必不可少的，如同神户牛肉的大理石花纹。上等的是很少的，并很贵：配料和表现：苦味蔬菜，烟熏水牛provala，一点维苏威pomodorini。一个比安卡比萨，猪油，罗勒和羊是番茄前年代对Coccia的贡物。

     第二天，我们上路了，从维苏威火山南面走过，一小时后出现在维科昆塞，一个在索伦托半岛风景如画的小镇，旅客通常由此至波西塔诺。这样，他们错过了该地区最著名的快餐店。在La Tradizione，商品安娜玛丽亚库奥莫和Salvatore Da Gennaro构成了坎帕尼亚食品的仙境：圣马尔扎诺番茄从维苏威的土壤中采摘;由杜松烟熏过的ricotta;以及袋装的当地Monaco鲜牛奶奶酪。在萨尔瓦多年代在洞穴和山洞里。

     Da Gennaros接手了我们。首先，在Gelateria Latteria加布里埃由海绵柠檬浸泡的婴儿巴巴，Cuomo家庭都拥有。然后午餐在an'E柯蒂，一个在维苏威火山影子里的osteria，这超级妈妈安吉拉切列洛做了该区的灵魂食物，而她的儿子恩佐德亚历山德罗做了nucillo，一种专门的核桃甜食。他是如此乡土化，细长瓶子指出坚果被挑选的确切地点。我提到Grangnano（几个世纪以来意大利干硬粒小麦面食生产中心）。普雷斯托：萨尔瓦多让我们到太阳照射的小镇，那里曾经是意大利面沿主要街道挂干的地方。

    至于晚饭，Da Gennaros载我们沿狭窄的阿马尔菲海岸道路至Cetara。这可能是阿马尔菲村庄最后的完整保留其传统的咸空气、并以凤尾鱼为生的地方，特别是它们琥珀色液体的colatura。帕斯夸莱托朗特，基地修道院餐馆老板，带着一种半宗教的热情介绍colatura的制作：在一个春天月夜下捕渔，与栗子或柠檬在桶内固化。从咸鱼中渗透出的精髓是纯粹蒸馏过的海水，加入昂贵的意大利面，如Al修道院的dente Grangnano意大利面。

     坎帕尼亚的产品和餐厅的繁荣多亏了利维娅和阿方亚卡里诺，在米其林两个明星餐馆--阿方1890餐馆，和圣阿加塔suidue戈尔菲餐馆，其俯视着那不勒斯海湾。这个卡里诺—也是波西塔诺勒赛奴优秀的酒店餐厅，大约30年前引领了欧洲的有机菜园。他们也生产空灵橄榄油、柠檬和3倍于平均水平的注入柑橘。到地中海，在在索伦托半岛陡峭的冰山上，他们的农场，Peracciole，1990年购买它时还只是一片很有前途的裸地；把它变得肥沃一直是奋斗的目标。利维娅载我们的行程结束了，商量沿海而下。然后，我们漫步行过橄榄树和朝鲜蓟荆棘，及从棚架摇摇欲坠的阿马尔菲柠檬。我们抓住在微光中飞越我们的垩白灰色的卡普里， “哎呀，我也要在这里买，”在利维娅挑选蔬菜做沙拉时巴里吞下口水说道。

艾米利亚-罗马干的火腿和帕马森

     经过托斯卡纳的山头，我们向北走，进入富饶的艾米利亚-罗马干平原，玫瑰色的土地和丰富的帕马森乳酪。有年岁的醋酸香醋和面食制作的eggy sfoglie（饼）薄得可以通过（理想）。这一切都在摩德纳等待着我们，富裕镇公爵被意大利gastronauts崇敬。导游是马西莫博图拉，一名厨师，娶了讲究感觉的慢食提倡主义者，主导Osteria Francescana。我迫不及待地想参观他最喜欢的食物大师。其中之一，费斯切拉Rubaldi，在摩德纳精致的室内市场开了斯基亚沃尼酒吧。无视巨大的线条，Rubaldi精心准备了我们的午餐。
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抢节宁改，贞心自束
6楼2010-02-22 11:12:02
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lengbingyu

金虫 (小有名气)
梦雪9992(金币+4): 2010-02-27 17:33
为什么不给BB？55555
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抢节宁改，贞心自束
7楼2010-02-23 22:18:22
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xiaoqihu

铁杆木虫 (著名写手)
菲亚特熊猫是菲亚特一款汽车的名字
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不是不追求，而是不强求
8楼2010-02-23 23:30:40
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zap65535

木虫 (著名写手)

两院大学士后
梦雪9992(金币+1): 2010-02-27 17:32
引用回帖:
Originally posted by lengbingyu at 2010-02-23 22:18:22:
为什么不给BB？55555

到期不给，我就负责发。
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9楼2010-02-24 00:31:02
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xiaoqihu

铁杆木虫 (著名写手)
梦雪9992(金币+1): 2010-02-27 17:33
引用回帖:
Originally posted by lengbingyu at 2010-02-22 11:12:02:
你这个好长啊，而且很多词都不是英语单词，我猜的。还有很多地名、食物名，更查不到了。50BB真不值啊，累死啦！！！嘿嘿……

在租来返回米兰Malpensa机场的车上，我最后沉思地回想了一下我们的菲亚特熊猫。有人 ...

真辛苦啊，翻译了这么多，我看着都累
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不是不追求，而是不强求
10楼2010-02-24 00:47:37
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